How to embroider on a sewing machine like a stitching pro

What’s the difference between machine embroidery and hand embroidery?

Machine and hand embroidery are enjoyable pastimes but utilize different equipment and skills.

Hand embroidery

Hand embroidery has been around since antiquity.

The only essential supplies are needle, thread, and fabric, although a hoop is often used to maintain tension on the fabric.

Hundreds of different stitches and techniques can be used for hand embroidery.

Stranded cotton floss and smoothly woven fabric are beginner embroidery basics, along with embroidery or crewel hand-sewing needles.

Machine embroidery

Machine embroidery is divided into hand-guided stitching, or needlepointing, and programmed machine embroidery.

For hand-guided machine embroidery for beginners, you'll need a sewing machine with feed dogs that can be disabled or covered. There are no stitches to learn in hand-guided embroidery.

Instead, the operator controls the fabric's movement and places stitches on the surface in any direction.

It's like free-motion quilting and can follow a sketched design or be worked completely freehand.

Programmable machine embroidery is a product of the industrial revolution, but it only entered the home-sewing market during the last decades of the 20th century. It's completely machine-guided for consistent results.

There is a wide range of designs and styles available, as well as a variety of fonts for monograms and lettering.

Some designs look so much like hand embroidery that it's hard to tell the difference!

What supplies do I need to get started with programmable machine embroidery?

When it comes to embroidery basics, you’ll first need a machine that can read and stitch embroidery designs.

You can choose between embroidery-only machines and those that combine sewing and embroidery functions. (Combination machines also allow you to experiment with hand-guided embroidery.)

The machine will come with an embroidery hoop or hoops that can be mounted on the machine.

Your selection of threads

Next, you'll need a selection of threads. Most machine embroidery designs have been digitized to stitch correctly with 40-weight machine embroidery threads.

Don't switch to another thread weight when starting out (unless the design you've chosen specifies it); the stitches will either appear too far apart or overlap unattractively.

Do invest in several colors of thread. Buying a collection of colors is a simple way to start, and you can add other colors as you begin specific projects.

Basic embroidery threads are usually polyester or rayon and come in various finishes, from shiny to matte.

Bobbin thread

You'll also need a bobbin thread. Digitized designs are stitched with a lightweight bobbin thread for the proper tension.

The good news is that you'll only need white thread for your bobbin, regardless of the colors on the embroidery's right side, because the bobbin thread isn't visible from the front of the work

Add black bobbin thread to your supplies if you're embroidering on dark fabrics.

Embroidery machine needle

Begin with a machine needle designed for embroidery optimized to work with high-speed embroidery threads.

Embroidery needles are available in sizes 11 and 14. The smaller (size 11) needle will work on most fabrics.

However, it is nice to have a size 14 needle available for heavy fabrics or if you have problems with thread breakage at the needle.

Stabilizer

One great advantage of machine embroidery, rather than hand embroidery, is that it looks great on almost any fabric.

The secret lies in the unseen underlayer, which we refer to as a stabilizer.

When you're learning embroidery, the choices for embroidery stabilizers may seem daunting.

To get started in embroidery, you can purchase just three:

What’s the best embroidery machine for me?

Today, machine embroidery designs are available in various formats, and Brother offers a variety of embroidery machines, many of which are great for beginners.

Think about the following factors to narrow the field and find the best simple embroidery machine for you:

Consider the cost

An embroidery-only machine with limited embroidery field size isn't hard to fit into most budgets, while a top-of-the-line combination sewing and embroidery machine is more of an investment.

Machines are also available at every point in between.

Visit a dealer to try a variety of machines so that you can choose one that fits your budget and includes the features you want and need.

What embroidery size do you need?

In general, the embroidery fields on home machines start at 4" x 4" and increase to sizes that will accommodate an entire jacket back in one hooping.

If you want just a taste of embroidery, smaller fields like 4" x 4" and 5" x 7" will lower the machine's cost. They may prove more versatile than you think as you learn to manipulate designs.

It's important to know that hoop size and embroidery field are not necessarily the same.

If your machine's field is 4" x 4", attaching a 6" x 10" hoop won't allow you to stitch larger designs—even if you can make the larger hoop fit onto the machine.

What features are you looking for?

Consider the following questions as you think about the features you need.

  • What sort of screen does the machine have? How easy is it to transfer designs to the machine for stitching?
  • What can you do with designs in the machine: change the size, rotate, program multiple designs into the embroidery field for one hooping?
  • Are accessories (other hoop sizes or computer software) or upgrades available to increase your capabilities?

Are there how-to guides available for the machine?

Dealers may offer classes or individual instruction as part of the purchase price. Also, some brands offer videos and online projects to help you discover your machine's features.

How do I start embroidering and use an embroidery hoop?

Once you have your machine, that’s when the fun begins. Follow our six-step embroidery tutorial to get started.

1. Choose threads for your design

If necessary, press your garment or fabric and then select the threads you want to use. Wind one or more bobbins and set one into the bobbin case. Transfer the design to your machine from your computer, a USB drive, or another source, or choose from built-in motifs.

2. Mark the location of the design on your project

Use a removable marking tool to draw horizontal and vertical center lines that intersect at the center of the design placement.

3. Lay your hoop’s outer ring onto your work surface

Place one or more layers of stabilizer, slightly larger than the hoop, on the outer ring.

Lay the project on the stabilizer, aligning the centerlines with the marks on the hoop, and insert the hoop's inner ring.

Press it downward to secure the fabric in the hoop. The fabric and stabilizer should be taut but not stretched.

(Note: For hand embroiderers, this hooping will seem upside down! For hand embroidery, the fabric lies across the top of the inner hoop for easy access, but for hooped machine embroidery, the fabric is held below the inner hoop to keep it against the machine bed.)

4. Attach the hoop to the machine

If possible, refine the design placement with machine controls using the centerlines and center intersection as guides.

Thread the first color of embroidery thread into the needle and lower the presser foot.

5. Press start on your machine

Your machine will take you through the stitching process, stopping when necessary for color changes.

When the design is complete, take the hoop off the machine and remove the project from the hoop.

6. Finish up and enjoy!

Tear or cut away the excess stabilizer, and your project is done!

What are some basic embroidery stitches to learn?

We know you’re eager to start, but first, you should learn a few basic embroidery stitches to understand the process better.

Let’s examine six beginner stitches that you can familiarize yourself with before your next big project.

1. Running stitch

Running stitch is another word for straight stitch. This is the basic stitch for sewing machines, needlework, and embroidery projects.

It involves passing the needle up and down through the fabric at a regular distance (as opposed to at varying lengths and with different space sizes).

2. Satin stitch

Sometimes called a damask stitch, a satin stitch is a series of flat stitches completely covering a section of fabric.

You can create this stitch using a special satin-stitch foot on an embroidery machine or the zigzag stitch on a standard sewing machine.

3. Backstitch

Backstitching embroidery consists of individual stitches that go backward (in the opposite direction) from your general sewing pattern.

It's sewn one stitch-length back on the back and two stitch-lengths forward on the front to create a solid line on both sides.

4. Stem stitch

Also known as a stalk stitch, crewel stitch, or point de cable, the stem stitch creates a cabled effect within an embroidery design.

The winding technique resembles viney plant stems and leaves, hence its name.

5. Split stitch

The split stitch is nearly identical to the stem stitch. However, the stem stitch has a more twisted, rope-like appearance, while the split stitch resembles a chain or braided threads.

6. Cross stitch

Cross stitching is a hand-embroidery technique that uses X-shaped stitches to create a tiled pattern, ultimately forming a picture or lettering.

The sewer counts the threads on a special even weave (cross stitch) fabric to ensure they're a uniform size.

What other items do you need to embroider?

In addition to fabric, you'll need a few things for your embroidery projects.

These include embroidery thread, bobbin thread, needles (embroidery or crewel needles), embroidery hoops, embroidery scissors, and fabric-marking pens.

How do I care for finished embroidery?

When you're done with your embroidery project, you'll want to ensure that it can withstand wear and tear.

Applying heat-press stabilizer film is best to create a seal and prevent water from penetrating through your needlework. This is typically done by ironing the stabilizer to the back of the fabric or inside of the clothing.

Be sure to carefully hand wash any finished embroidery with mild soap and warm water. After rinsing, gently squeeze the fabric to remove excess water, then place it on a clean, dry towel to air dry.

Enjoying the timeless art of embroidering

Embroidery is a truly timeless craft and an excellent way to embellish anything, from clothing and housewares to accessories and monogrammed bath linens.

At Brother, we make some of the best embroidery machines available, including devices with built-in stitches and designs, as well as "quiltbroidery" capabilities.

Check out these links to a few easy embroidery projects to get started: